Three Years in the Making (the sweater not the collection)

This week I will be launching the long in the making VERSACIKNITS woolfolk collection. In anticipation, I thought it would be fun to showcase a different design each day leading up to the launch! Today we will look at the most complex of the designs, reverso.

Reverso is a reversible (front-to-back), top-down, all-in-one-piece sweater with set-in sleeves, A-line shape and pockets. You say that is a lot to do all in one garment? I agree.

The challenge began for me 3 years ago. Initially inspired to desgin a front-to-back cardigan by a photo on pinterest, I took a class with Ysolda on raglan construction and became smitten with the notion of set-in sleeves and an all-in-one-piece garment. So, I made a first attempt.

If you follow VERSACIKNITS on facebook, you might remember this photo that I posted back in October of 2012 (when I had just reorganized my studio space).

You will notice the striped pullover on the dress form. The striped sweater (later frogged) was my first attempt! I just couldn’t get the collar right. If it goes too low, the neckline on the back is weird. If you go too high, you get choked. And to be honest, the striping really didn’t match my aesthetic.

So I mulled on…

When I started thinking about a woolfolk collection, I thought “what better yarn than a cashmere look-a-like to accommodate the concept of a luxurious button down the back sweater!” And I was off again!

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But this time I started with the idea of a broad mock turtleneck, thinking that the width would help with comfort/fit at the neckline and add a modern feel. Then I used a novel top-of-shoulder construction that creates the platform for a lovely curve line for the front and back necklines. It is only after you have finished this curve that you go on to pick up sleeve stitches along the edges of the shoulder.

Needless to say, I had many erroneous attempts before I sorted out this construction puzzle, but I find the result quite stunning! Of course the juxtaposition of the shaping, the simple ribbing and the stockinette is what makes the top section of this design so intriguing.

To make the sweater more flattering, I added an A-line shape to the bodice and a wide rib hem that incorporates deep side pockets. The 3/4 length sleeves finish the look, making it a great jacket like cardigan when worn buttoned in front and chic modern mock turtleneck when buttoned down the back.

Which way will you wear your reverso?